It's most appalling because all the maps are based on the USGS data, which is paid for by our fucking tax dollars. Fortunately there are some perfectly good free map sites :
Of these, digital-topo-maps.com is the easiest to browse around cuz it just uses Google maps (actually, it seems to be like 10X faster than Google's own interface, so it's actually just a nice way to browse normal maps too).
Libre Maps is the most useful for hiking with because it has nice printer-ready pages in high quality.
Also, I sometimes forget that Google still has the Terrain maps because they are hidden under More... now. I'm sure somebody has done trail overlays for Google Terrain, but I haven't found it.