03-31-09 - Recent Food Reviews

I've become a big fan of braising greens as I get older. The Trader Joe's braising green mix is reasonably priced and convenient, and unlike most bag salad products, it's not all rotten because braising greens hold up well. At Restaurant Zoe we had some collard greens that were almost delicious but in fact disgusting. They were smothered in so much butter, and it they were near room temperature so the butter was semi-solidified, so that it was almost like a quiche with just butter instead of milk and egg. If you're going to add bacon to your braising greens, don't be tempted to do it first. Yes, cooking things together is nice, but it's better to cook the bacon last and just sprinkle it on at plating so it stays crispy.

The best thing I ate in San Francisco during GDC was the bone marrow at Two. Bone marrow is a lot like butter-collards, it can be disgusting if it's too plain, because it is basically pure fat, and it does have a slightly weird vitamin-like bone taste. It's been trendy to cut it with a bit of persillade or gremolata or something like that, but at Two they serve it in a kind of reduced-broth onion gravy, which was perfect. It enhances the meatiness and tames the vomit factor, and provides some extra nice tasty bread dip.

(the Raviolo at Two was also excellent - a soft cooked egg yolk in a pasta wrapper with brown butter sauce, very simple but delicious. It would've been better with some crunchy pancetta bits sprinkled on top. That also continues a trend I've seen a lot recently of really interesting and well made delicious appetizers, leading up to rather boring and lazily made main courses.)

No comments:

old rants